After our light lunch, she told me to rest, as we would be out late. I lay down, but soon her brother came in and lay down on another bed nearby. I felt uneasy about that and only snoozed. The room’s one small window had a crack through which smoky incense entered. The smoke triggered an allergic reaction that, before I finished my afternoon rest, started into one of my dreadful sinus infections. Being sick did rather spoil the remainder of the evening for me.
But let me return to that crack in the window. The window was very near the area where the women do their dukhaan (smoking). There is a small hole, about four to five inches wide, in the women’s section of the courtyard. They put burning charcoal into the hole, then sandalwood incense on top of the coals. The woman strips off her clothes and sits over the hole so that the smell of the incense seeps into her skin. In order to stay “decent” and hold in the scent, she drapes a woven grass mat over her with space in the middle for her head to stick out. It takes an hour or more to get the full effect. But once that incense gets into the pores, the scent stays for days.
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